You are probably a little surprised to find this edition of Real Safari in your inbox. It’s been a while.
When I started this newsletter, I set myself goal of publishing a fresh newsletter every week – and I managed to achieve that goal. The debut edition was posted in April 2021and continued until 58 editions later – I took a break. It’s been a long break and a lot has happened in my personal life since then, but now I would like to take the reins once again.
In this, the second season of Real Safari, I am to publish not quite as often as regularly as before, but I promise to do my best to keep you entertained with unique perspectives on Eastern Cape wildlife.
Here goes.
First trip to the Mountain Zebra Park
Ilza and I had never been to the Mountain Zebra Park (MZP) even though at 185km it is not especially far away from our home in Makhanda (Grahamstown), but it is too far for a day trip.
We regularly drive to the Addo Elephant Park because it is only 90km away so it is relatively uncomplicated to go there, drive around and comeback in one day. It is an hour’s drive to the Matyholweni gate at Addo, we cruise around for six to eight hours and then drive an hour to get back home.
We decided to spend two nights at MZP so we could drive at a leisurely speed and take time to get to know the park.
The trip took three hours due to the poor state of the R350 route and extensive road works along the R63. We found the entrance to the park just beyond the town of Cradock.
We rented a comfortable, self-catering cottage with a braai (barbecue) area, interior fireplace, air conditioning, a fully equipped kitchen and a wonderful view of a wide valley stretching out into distant mountains. The bargain price for all this was just under R3,000 (About $150) for both nights.
The accommodation is, however, better suited to a summer visit and we were at MZP in the middle of a freezing cold winter. This means it was really too cold (almost 0°C) to braai outside and while the idea of using the indoor fireplace to take the edge off the cold was tempting, we didn’t really want to smell smoky all the time.
The main attractions at the park are lions and cheetahs and when you meet park staff members they almost always tell you where the latest sighting were. It seems to be a reflex habit born out of being asked the same questions time and time again.
We looked for the big cats, but we knew that there was so much more to see.
On our first day we saw small herds of the mountain zebras that gave the park its name; larger herds of springbuck, black wildebeest and several herds of between 20 and 50 blesbuck. All animals that are not found in our favourite place, Addo Elephant Park.
I described mountain zebras in detail in our visit to the Karoo National Park so I am not going to dwell on them here. The MZP claims to have at least 1,000 mountain zebras and we saw some almost immediately, so I did not pay them too much attention. We never saw a single mountain zebras on our second and third day and consequently I did not get very exciting photos on the first day.
Fairly large herds of springbuck were exciting because we don’t usually see them and when we have spotted them in other parks, (Karoo National Park, Lalibela and others) they usually keep at least 80 metres from our vehicle. At the MZP we had several sightings where the springbuck came to within five metres our car.
Black wildebeest with their white tails and ginger beards are rare. They are found only in Southern Africa and were almost exterminated in the 19th century. Black wildebeest are hard to photograph because they are skittish and keep their distance from all vehicles. They like to socialise with other herbivores and we often saw them grazing among springbuck and blesbuck.
The gates at the main camp close at six pm when it already dark and we were already on the way back to the camp with the headlights on when we spotted two black backed jackals trotting along the road.
They never seem to just walk or run much – their default pace is a quick trot. We followed the pair for about two hundred metres (at a respectful distance of course) until they disappeared into the tall grass. It was exciting to see them but it was impossible to photograph because of the failing light and the pace they were keeping.
Snow and zero degrees
On Sunday, we woke at 06:15 to warm up with some coffee and make it to the gate just before it opens at 07:00.
It was very cold. We could see light snow had dusted the tops of the mountains in the distance. This area is semi desert and we hadn’t seen any snow for more than a decade. We had to get to the snow before it melted.
We needn’t have worried as we climbed towards Roodeplaat in light sleet and buffeting winds. We South Africans are not used to such conditions. It was very cold, with the car’s temperature gauge hovering between zero and one degree C.
In the first hour or so we never saw a single animal, but the landscape was spectacular. We drove over a plateau with occasional hills. At the one point where you are allowed to alight from your vehicle we took selfies next to a snow covered sign warning us about lions.
I don’t think that many people have pictures like that.
We developed a good tourism pattern while we were at the park: an early morning drive; come back to the cottage for breakfast and a rest; late morning drive followed by lunch and a siesta then a late afternoon drive to return just before the gates close.
This plan is not too strenuous and allows for plenty of variety.
Next week, I will tell readers about one of the most exciting sightings we have ever had in the second part of the Mountain Zebra Park.
Thanks for reading Real Safari.
Thank-you David. It was incredibly cold and we had been forewarned so we were sort of prepared. Had you noticed much change from the early '70s to more recently?
Thanks Steve, it was great to read about your trip to MZP. Looking forward to part two! Love to you and Ilza